Preveza is the princess of the Ambracian Gulf, built at the mouth of the enclosed bay and overlooking the Ionian Sea with its dazzling beaches. It is the main urban centre in the region, succeeding Nicopolis of the Byzantine era (11th century) when the Roman metropolis fell into decline as its inhabitants abandoned it. Over the centuries, a number of conquerors passed through Preveza, including Venetians, Franks, and Ottomans, and the sea off its coast was the setting for two world-changing naval battles: the Battle of Actium in 31 BC, between those seeking to control Rome, and the Battle of Preveza in1538, in which Barbarossa’s Turkish fleet overcame the Christian alliance of the West. Kostas Karyotakis’ suicide in the 20th century and his bleak, poetic images of Preveza created a groundless urban myth that did not do the town justice. It is a town with a middle-class tradition, bright and welcoming, and nothing like the legacy left by Karyotakis’ poem. Preveza has the look and feel of an island town. The waterfront pedestrian walkway is lined with low houses and a promenade full of sailing and fishing boats. Restaurants alongside the Ambracian seaside and in the town’s interior are known for the delicious, locally caught fish, shrimp and inventive dishes. The castle ruins that surround it highlight the history and strategic importance of this “floating” city. Although the undersea tunnel across the Ambracian Gulf and today’s hurried pace may lead to other destinations, it is worth taking the time to explore Preveza. The town’s historical centre and its promenade retain much of the serene and traditional appearance of its past. Preveza rewards visitors with the hospitality of its people, the stunning beauty of the gulf, its noteworthy monuments and its seafood-based cuisine.